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When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.